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Maintenance Videos

Tools for Truing Wheels

Thank you for choosing Spinergy wheels. We will show you the tools you will need to true your wheel. We have a spline spoke tool wrench; this is used for the solid portion of the spoke. We have a quarter inch thin wall socket driver tool. Both of these are used on the Stealth PBO, Xaero Lite, Xyclone Disc wheel, Xyclone Race wheel and old school version three Fall Line Disc wheel. We have a slotted wrench tool and a 5/16th thin wall socket driver tool. These are used on the Enduro and the new Fall Line Disc wheels. We have a Stealth SS tool here; it’s an inverted spoke nipple wrench. This is used on the Stealth SS wheels, along with a bladed spoke or tension tool for cable discs, on mechanical brakes. This tool can be purchased at any local bike shop. We have 5mm driver tool or you can use a 5mm alan wrench tool on the Full Carbon Clinchers or Full Carbon Tubulars.

 

Tension Tool

Last but not least, we have the part TM-1 tension tool. This tool is needed to check tension of the drive side and non-drive side of both front and rear wheels. This tool is critical for allowing proper performance and proper tension into the tool.

 

Servicing Road Wheel Freehub Body

Thank you for purchasing Spinergy Wheels. We’re back and we are going to show you how to service your free hub body. You will need two 6mm alan tool wrenches and a 17mm cone wrench. You can get these at a hardware store and any bike shop can supply this tool for you. We will begin by inserting the two 6mm alan wrench tools into the opposite ends of your hub. Begin to remove the non-drive endcap, taken apart counter-clockwise. The axle assembly will slide off. You will check for cracks, wear and tear, and any other visual signs of damage. We’ll begin to carefully, at an angle, pry off one of the pawls with the spring. We will check again for cracks, wear and tear, and clean. Once we’ve cleaned now we can oil the journals where the pawls lie in place. We recommend using motor oil. One small drop will suffice for lubrication needs. Note that the pawls have a larger end, and that portion slides in place first. Find the break of the free hub; there is a stud right there. Find the split of the spring, line them up. If one falls out, go ahead and put it back into place. Check that the split of the spring is lined up with the stud. Now we can lubricate our seal. We put three drops of motor oil in place, and run our thumb or finger around the outside of the seal. Wipe off any excess oil on the phalange of the hub. We don’t recommend using any harsh solvents or cleaners; a clean rag is perfect for the job. We want to go and lubricate the axle with motor oil or light grease before we reassemble. If your having trouble compressing the free hub body assembly into the hub, we can use a credit card or cone wrench to help depress one of the pawls, at the same time we depress and we push it down into place. We now apply a little bit of Loctite 222 or light blue, one small drop. We reinsert our 6mm alan wrench tools. We recommend torquing them down to 100 inch pounds, but in a pinch you can use your palm and your body weight. What you want to do, once you have them snug up, you line up your alan wrench tools parallel. You put both palms in and you put your body weight. Don’t over tighten; just let your body weight fall into it, and snug. Again, we don’t recommend not using a torque wrench, and you do want to apply 100 inch pounds. Wipe off any excess oil. Enjoy.

 

Servicing Mountain Bike Freehub Body

Welcome back, thank you for purchasing Spinergy wheels. We want to ensure you have the best ride. But we also want to show you how to service your free hub body. You will need two 6mm alan wrench tools. These tools can be supplied at any local hardware store. And you want a 10mm alan wrench tool. We will begin by inserting both 6mm alan wrench tools inside the endcaps. You want to remove to drive side endcap counter clockwise. Once the endcap has been removed, you can slide out the free hub body. You want to check for any wear and tear or cracks. You will carefully pry at an angle one of the pawls and the spring. Note there is a stud, so find the stud and pry at that point, carefully. You then now check and inspect for cracks, wear and tear on the free hub. We clean, wipe off any debris or material. We don’t recommend using harsh solvents, or cleaners, but a terry cloth or a towel will suffice. You can lube the pawls two ways; the best way to lube them is one drop of motor oil on each journal. And you can slide the pawls into place, finding the larger end, sliding into place as so. You want to find the break of the spring and the stud, and line the break of the spring to the stud, carefully installing the spring. Now that the spring is installed, we can lubricate the seal. We recommend using three drops of motor oil. You can distribute the oil with your finger all the way around the seal. You want to go ahead and lubricate the axle assembly as well. Note that only the drive side endcap came off. But to remove and inspect the axle completely, we can insert the 10mm on the drive side and the 6mm on the non-drive side. You can take a visual and look at the axle assembly. You want to lubricate and clean. Reinsert. We recommend using Light Blue Loctite, or Loctite 222. Install one small drop on the spoke threads. Go ahead and reinstall the non-drive endcap. Reinstall the free hub body. Apply one small drop of Locktight on the end. We recommend torquing the endcaps to 100 inch pounds, but in a pinch you can snug them. What you want to do is put them about 180 degrees to the horizon, parallel to the horizon, and use your palms and put your body weight into it. Again, we do not recommend that, and we recommend torquing them to 100 inch pounds. Wipe off any excess oil and locktight. Reinstall your skewer, and put the wheel back on your bike. Go ride and smile.

 

Truing Fall Line and Xyclone Enduro Wheels

Welcome back to truing Xyclone Enduro and Fall Line wheel set. We will need to use the spline tool for your Fall Line and Enduro wheels, slotted wrench or crescent wrench, whichever you prefer. We will install the tool at the base of the spoke, right where it connects to the rim. This tool is stationary. Next we will install the 5/16th driver thin wall socket; once you have removed the tire, tube and rim strip. Now we can begin to true our Fall Line or Enduro wheel set.

 

Truing Stealth PBO, Xaero Lite, Xyclone Disc and Xyclone Race Wheels

Welcome back to truing Stealth PBO wheel, Xaero Lite, Xyclone Disc or Xyclone Race. We will need the supplied spline tool; we will insert that tool right over the base of the spoke right where it connects to the rim. This tool is stationary; we will keep our hand there. We will need to insert the quarter inch thin wall socket driver tool; once you have removed the tire, tube and rim strip. Now we can begin to true our Stealth PBO, Xyclone Race, Xyclone Disc wheel, and Xaero Lite.

 

Truing FCC and FCT Wheels

Welcome back to truing Stealth FCC FCT, your full carbon clincher and your full carbon tubular. First we need the spline tool; we will insert this right over the spoke at top of the base of the rim. Then insert our 5mm driver tool in place; once you have removed the tire, tube and rim strip. Now we can begin to true our Stealth FCC FCT wheel. Make sure this tool is stationary while we add tension to the driver.

 

Truing Stealth SS Wheels

Welcome back to truing Stealth SS wheels. We will need the supplied tool, an inverted spoke nipple wrench. First we will need to remove the tire, tube and rim strip. We will insert this on the inside of the rim. An unsupplied tool is the spoke tension tool, also referred to as third hand or cable tension tool on a bicycle for brakes. We will install that at the base, above the rim. Now we can begin to tension our Spinergy Stealth SS wheels.